As we drove to the Bangalore airport, I thought back to when we first arrived in India 3 weeks prior.
We arrived around 4 in the morning, so it was dark as we drove from the airport. I was tired from the flight, but excited at reaching our destination. I was trying to take in as much as I could.
The main road was 2 lanes and relatively smooth. That surprised me as I had been warned of what the roads were like. Not much traffic because of the early hour. I saw a rickshaw “truck” with a load of chickens in cages. Billboards dotted the landscape of our drive – so that didn’t feel too odd.
As we went off the main road, it got bumpier, and I noticed all these “garages” with shop names above them. The final road to our host home was taken very slowly, and the potholes were very evident.
The next day was the assault on the senses as we drove to the train headed for Chennai. I was trying to soak in the variety of people and dress styles, the street vendors, the dogs and cows roaming free on the streets, the piles of garbage, horns beeping, bicycle rickshaws, motorized rickshaws, motorcycles, cars, Hindu temples on street corners with priests outside doing their prayer rituals, churches, schools, kids in uniform going to school, houses right next to “tents” (if you can call them that), Bible verses written on walls, people walking with things on their heads, schools, government buildings, fences everywhere, the smell of diesel, garbage, human waste, flowers, food, spices…I couldn’t process it all.
Now as we drive to the airport, I am able to focus on specific things that I see. An older lady in her sari walking along with her produce carried on her head. The “garage” shops are not so overwhelming and I can pick out the bakeries and produce stores from the auto shops and clothing stores. I know what food is available from the stores and street vendors.
India traffic doesn’t faze me much now. I am tired of the bumpy roads, and vow to never complain about Michigan potholes or drivers (though I am sure that will wear off quickly). The fact that we have highway systems in and of itself is wonderful. I don’t think I could ever successfully drive on an Indian road, and am amazed at the concentration and courage of those who do.
Some of the things I took for granted before – western toilets, toilet paper, hot showers (not bucket showers), regular power, high speed internet connections, coffee houses that have wi-fi.
We complain when we lose our home internet connection for a couple hours, yet dial-up at home is still a luxury for most of the nation. When they lose power, the few lights that are on the inverter stay lit and they go about their business. The fact that TV isn’t on the inverter is only an issue if it’s the end of the cricket match.
I loved the food. There are no instant meals in India, though. Canned chicken? Lamb Helper? Frozen vegetables? I think I put on weight from everything I ate [home now, and actually lost weight]. Josh loved getting different fruits and trying them out. Some he liked, others not so much. Papaya was his least favorite, the little bananas were his favorite.
And along with food – the hospitality! The two actually go together – if you visit an Indian home, be prepared to be served chaia (Indian tea) at a minimum, snacks most likely – samosas, puffs, plantains (fresh, steamed, and fried), and sweets galore. You visit, eat, and pray a blessing on the house as you leave.
One of the things that we found disconcerting though is that if you were invited for a meal, the family that invited you often did not eat with you. The reason is they are focused on making sure your needs are met and that the food stays hot, so they eat later. That is a definite change from what we are used to in the west.
I watched in wonder at buildings being built while I was there – scaffolding built from scratch using bamboo poles, bricks moved from the ground to the second floor – one at a time by a line of people passing them from one person to the next. I didn’t see many big bull-dozers – a line of men with shovels and pick-axes did that work.
Having land is precious. If you have enough to have a covering for your car and a small strip to plant some vegetables and spices, you are excited. If you think yards in California are small, these are even smaller!
I think of the churches and know more of their challenges. Sharing the gospel with Hindus is difficult due to tolerance – Hindus will simply add Jesus to their pantheon. Many who come to Christ come due to miracles of met needs. Discipleship is almost non-existent.
Yet when they leave behind Hinduism and come to Christ, the excitement that you see on their faces. They tell their stories to you willingly. I heard stories of one member of a family healed miraculously at a church, and most of the extended family came to Christ as a result, reminiscent of Cornelius and Lydia’s families in the book of Acts.
I also heard heartbreaking stories of some who came to Christ and have been abandoned by their families. Yet they have hope, and asked for prayer that they might be able to continue to share Christ with them, that they might share in the joy that they now have.
And the pastors – pastors who serve face many challenges – lack of training for themselves, a “me”-culture, extremely low pay – many living below the poverty level. What we take for granted in terms of translations and concordances and illustrations from the internet – they have only a single copy of the Word of God.
Yet they recognize the power of that Word. They know what prayer is and that it puts them in the throne room of God. They know that the songs they sing are essential to worship. They don’t have iPods and David Crowder, but they worship with all of their hearts. Even though I didn’t understand what they were singing, you could see in their faces that they were going before an almighty God in song, trusting that He is using them.
The people in the churches, especially the remote villages, are devoted to Scripture and reading and memorizing it. They don’t put it all together correctly, but they know their way around the Bible better than the rich Americans who own multiple Bibles, concordances, and other tools.
Some churches spurn all jewelry because of its link to Hinduism. Some churches do not celebrate Christmas because it just adds another day to the number of days that Hindus idolize, and they want to be set apart. While we may laugh at it from this side, we have not studied it from their angle and their culture. I have learned that I respect their stance and dedication to it.
I am still processing what we as a western church can learn from these churches. There are no building programs – usually they meet in somebody’s house or tent, Sunday school is critical for their learning. When evangelists travel, people will flock to listen to them speak for hours. They face persecution for their faith, and Christians are often blamed for a variety of problems just because they are there. And yet they endure. They are dedicated to what God has called them to do with a singular devotion.
AIDS is a problem there that is still hidden. It is being addressed more today than ten years ago, but is still a major stigma. Children who lose their parents to AIDS are cast aside and left for dead. Much of the effort to help those impacted by AIDS comes from the churches. The government provides assistance, but other faiths sweep the issue out the door (literally).
Poverty as we know it in the Americas is rich compared to poverty in India. It is more widespread and more open. While India has their slum areas, many of the slum areas can be right in the middle of a nice neighborhood. While I found the beggars to be more persistent in India, the other thing I noticed is that the poor look for ways to keep busy and/or earn money. Sweeping streets, fishing and selling fish, being a servant in another house. Many of them are proud, and many are happy in the situation they are in.
People in India like to serve. They are know for their service and hospitality. From the time we got on Kingfisher to the various hotels to the hospitality in the homes to people wanting to meet us to the people we got to teach – that description proved true.
We spent four weeks on the road, so I’m ready to go home. It has been a long, rewarding trip. Not looking forward to the hours of plane rides, but wondering what all that I have learned means. How will it impact my prayer life? As God has been introducing me to more and more Indian people at church and work, how is He going to use me? How can I make a difference for the people back in India, the pastors and Christians that I met?
Life changing? Yes.